Well, this might not be a sound you would want to hear from your hard drive, for it might be in it’s death throes. The screeching sound may be the bearings that make the platters spin breaking down or they have been in use for so long they have worn out the hard metal coatings on the teeny tiny bearings. The first thing you do is to copy as much data that you can to another hard drive to prevent total disaster. Most drives will continue to function for sometime before total failure of the drive. You’ll be glad to know that they have become more reliable than ever but that does not mean totally.

You are browsing the net and you get tired so you take a break and return to a computer with no display, what do you do? First of all, don�t panic and see if the CPU is still functioning with blinking lights or the power LED (the green thingy that is always on when you use your PC). If it is blinking, the PC has turned itself off going into sleep mode, look for the wake-up key on the keyboard and press, you�re back in business. If it still fails, sorry but you�ll have to turn off the CPU (computer actually) by pressing the Power Button until the power led turns off and the fan stops humming. Disconnect all cables and connectors from the CPU and open the casing making sure you touch the case before doing anything else (this discharges static electricity which could fry expensive microelectronics like your motherboard, memory module, CPU, etc).

The �blue screen� as it is more commonly called can be a simple sign that your computer is overheating and more ventilation is needed. This can be addresses with a couple of extra cooling fans or that the existing fans might be dirty and chock full of dust and grime. This can even be a sign of memory module failure which can also be attributed to overheating ( some memory modules literally cook on the boards giving off the nasty smell of burned plastic). Cooling improvements and replacement can remedy the situation granted that no other motherboard components have been cooked to a crisp.

Many of us have experienced it many times over, the dreaded “Blue Screen of Death” when using personal computers or just about any computer as a matter of fact. Mostly associated with windows errors, this is called a memory dump which signifies that windows in it�s many versions has encountered an unrecoverable error and has ceased to function. This is a signal to panic for the term paper or presentation you�ve just spent the whole week making and refining has turned to dust hopefully which you might have had a back-up file on some other form of medium.

If you experience frequent CPU failures and get feedback from the store that the power supply has blown. Try to get a larger capacity or higher rated power supply. You might have too many devices hooked up to the power supply (internal and externally) both of which take power from the same power supply if they have no individual power adapter. Say if you have a 300 or 400 watt power supply, try getting hold of a 500 watt or higher model and try to get the bit pricy one so it would last. Repetitive power supply failures can cause damage to the internal parts of your CPU and even the board itself which has built in fuses to protect the Microprocessor unit itself from such damage. If the board has also failed, you would have to get another board to transfer the cpu onto.

First check the power chord and the cable that connects to the CPU. If these are firmly seated and there is still no display, the video card may be defective or the least needs to be re-seated. Pull out all the plugs and wires connected to the CPU and open it. Try to remember the place where the monitor is connected and you get the video card. Remove the said card by unscrewing it from the casing and removing or sliding any retention tabs that was supposed to prevent it from pulling loose. Pull it out while taking care not to remove any of the other wires that are in the CPU unit itself. Check for any visible damage such as burn marks or a smell that I assure you that you won’t soon forget. Any of those signs and get packing for you are getting a new one. If unsure of the type (there are several types of video cards), bring the one you pulled out as a basis. When at the store, try getting something either equal to or better than the one you have. When you get home, touch the CPU power supply to again discharge static and re-install the aid card. Remember to re-attach any cable or fan power supply you might have had to pull out to get access. Re-assemble the unit and boot up(you might have to install the drivers of the new card if you were unable to get the same type and brand).

If you have just re-furbished your computer say replacing parts (memory, video cards, hard drive and other bare essentials) make sure all power connections are properly seated and connected then try to power-up. If that fails, try to un-plug and re-plug all cards and connections (IDE cables, SATA Connectors, power supply connections, etc.)
connections to ensure they seat properly (it would be nice to check for bent pins before you re-plug them in their proper sockets for that sometimes happen) and check for broken pins that may be preventing proper connections. Re-check what you have done by powering up and see if that works.

There are a couple of very easy steps that would allow you to troubleshoot a motherboard that doesn’t power up but be sure to get a grounding wrist strap to dissipate any static electricity that would kill any electronics you may touch. Make sure all power connections are unplugged before servicing a computer to prevent stray electricity from kicking you with a jolt of electricity. As with many PC problems, it would be best to strip down the PC to a bare-bone system, which would be the, Power Supply, Motherboard, processor, memory, hard drive and the necessary CPU fan. Take out all peripherals that may be connected to the computer and un-hook all connected printers and other devices. This would allow you to do an elimination process whereby you get to add components that may be causing the failure to power up.

Some boards may simply have a two-pin configuration which if shorted can remove the errant password. Others motherboards require a few minutes for the BIOS to re-set and some require you to power the system up, then shutdown in order to return the jumper block into its previous position. After this, you would have to re-configure the BIOS to it’s previous settings so it would be a nifty idea to have a copy of these in a safe place. You can always have the manual to get the best optimal settings which would work for your system should you have a need to. The automatic settings that are built into the BIOS are not always the best setting to use but it will get you up and running in no time. Take time to understand each and every setting that you encounter (having the manual by your side makes it easier) and some boards even have descriptors which tells you which does what and what the default settings are.

A manual would be great and better for it eliminates mistakes which could not solve the problem at all and worse send you off buying a new board due to a short you created when you hastily did the operation. Boards come in several versions from several manufacturers, and if you’re like me who sticks to a select group of manufacturers, chances are they will have the overall same labels that allow easy understanding of the board even without the manual. If the reset pins come in the form of a three pronged arrangement, then there should be a jumper that shorts out two of them which in it’s current state would be the normal setting, switch the pins using the jumper and short the pins labeled reset, wait for a few minutes for the bois to reset then return the pins to the normal position. Some boards have labes some don’t and have numbers that have to be referenced with the manual.